Benefits from this mod:
- Great straight line
stability with the extra caster.
Tools needed :
- 19mm, 17mm, 12mm, 13mm
sockets + wrench
1. Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly.
2. Using the jack, lift up the front the car using the center lift point
3. Remove wheel. Mark a spot with some paint on the top camber bolt to shock body. You'll need this mark later on to re-align the camber.
4. Remove the bolts holding brake line and
6. Now using a breaker bar loosen the two bolts holding the strut to the hub.
7. Remove the three 12mm bolts holding the strut top to the chassis. Then remove the two lower strut bolts that were loosened earlier. Remove strut/spring combo.
8. With the assembly out of the car, take off the cap on the oem strut top.
9. Use spring compressors if you have original springs, otherwise you can manage without them if you have lowering springs. Remove the 17mm nut on the strut top. We used a electric wrench for this, but you can also use a 6mm allen key with wrench.
10. For the new plate use the smaller washer on top and larger washer on the bottom. Apply some anti-seize to the lower washer's bottom.
11. Reassemble strut and tighten 17mm nut to ~42 lb-ft.
12. Now re-install the strut back into the car. Make sure the caster/camber plate wording is facing outward towards the fenders.
13. Insert the 19mm strut bolts and then lightly tighten the new 13mm caster/camber top bolts (enough so that the plate doesn't move easily)
14. Realign top camber bolt mark to strut. Now check the measurements on the top from the marked masking tape marks. Adjust plate as necessary.
15. After adjustments tighten lower bolts to 122 lb-ft and top plate bolts to 18 lb-ft. Re-connect the abs and brake hoses to strut. Torque those bolts to 24 lb-ft.
16. Reinstall wheel (torque nuts to 65 lb-ft), lower car and go for a alignment!.
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